The new generation of Galway food kids—well, not exactly kids anymore—are now well-established young ladies and gentlemen who have grown up organically around us over the past twenty-odd years. Watching them grow up, go to school, and be inspired by their local landscapes has been an absolute joy. In Galway, in particular, we share a common mindset when it comes to our youth: a rising tide lifts all boats, so to speak. We're in it together. So, allow us to introduce just four of the many young talents who are making waves and carving their own paths in creative hospitality.
Words by Jess Murphy.
First up is Iseult Gumbleton Fitzsimons, who currently works at Daróg Wine Bar. She’s an incredibly exciting figure in the wine world right now, with expert knowledge and a real passion for her craft.
Next is Ruairí Grealish, a recent graduate of Shannon College of Hotel Management. After a stint honing his front-of-house skills in Arosa, Geneva, Switzerland, he’s returned home and is now operations manager at The Kings Head, working alongside his parents (and yes, he still changes all the kegs).
Then there are best pals Milo O’ Malley and Manus Sheridan, who have launched an exciting new food stall called Púca. They're grilling, thrilling, and slinging some of the most amazing Irish artisan cheese toasties—100% tasty and totally unmissable. But let’s get to know them a bit more—and what drives them.
above: Milo and Manus of Púca
J. What was it like growing up around food in Galway? What do you think makes it all so special?
Iseult: Food is a constant sharing of ideas, cultures, and time with one another. I love Galway; it's such a vibrant melting pot of nationalities, personalities, and people. The food world is an exciting world to be part of, it’s like having front row seats to constant creativity.
Manus: As a kid, you don’t really realise how lucky you are and then it suddenly dawns on you. Growing up around the food scene in Galway has been fundamental to who I am today: my values, my beliefs, my friendships, you soak it up a lot. My dad, Seamus Sheridan (aka Sheridan’s Cheesemongers) cooked at home every day. We’d visit amazing farms and local food producers, and I’d spend my days in the cheese shop. I’ve learned a lot by accident.
Ruairí: At the age of ten, I begged my parents, Mary and Paul Grealish, owners of the world-famous Kings Head, to let me chop lemons. I then continued to work my summer holidays in the kitchen throughout secondary school, before eventually moving to front-of-house. In the kitchen, I was mentored by Brendan Keane, a legendary head chef, while I prepped vegetables and opened oysters. There was such a buzz and rush being in that busy kitchen at that age. I naturally fell in love with it. I remember Brendan challenging me to see how many oysters I could open in an hour.
Milo: Food is what brings us together. Food brings Galway alive. It’s treated as an equal to the Arts—it’s part of who we are. We’ve grown up around brilliant food businesses, traders, and restaurants, (including Milo’s mam and dad’s magnificent lunch spot, Anton’s Café.) And now, to work alongside them is an absolute privilege.
above: Iseult
J. It’s clear you’ve got a massive grá for Galway’s food producers, who in particular do you hold close to your hearts?
Iseult: My love for food is definitely shared with my dad, David Gumbleton (David, the myth, the man, the legend. He came all the way from Sydney, having worked at the world-famous Tetsuya, before moving to Galway and working at Sheridan’s for many years.) He’s the reason I’m in this industry today. My Saturday mornings were spent picking blackberries with no plan to retire by midday, then heading to Galway Market with oysters in one hand. I thought they were called 'fairy cups.' Layla from Coolfin Organic Bakery also inspired me, watching her set up her business in her early 20s made me think, ‘I could do that too!’ It was on Market Street that I met dozens of food folk, from Irish to Italian, Australian to Japanese, constantly sharing ideas, recipes, and stories. A family of its own was born there. Today, we’re all as thick as thieves, though we’ve lost some of the best along the way.
Manus: Every Saturday as a kid, I’d get up early and head straight to Galway Market, buying vegetables from Cait (where her sister Juno works on Saturdays), fish from Stefan, and doughnuts from Danny. But one real standout moment was my first time flying alone. I was 16, off to Italy to visit our family friends, the Caveros. I got a real insight into how seriously they take their food, it’s a religion to them, their version of the GAA. Their pasta and wine? The best in the world. But the village down the road? Horrible—the worst! Growing up, I’d always catch stray comments at school, ‘cheese boy’ and all that high school craic. It never made me ashamed of the business my family was in, but it did make it seem a bit uncool, so to say. After that trip, I came back with a completely new sense of pride and a whole different view and respect for food.
Ruairí: Believe it or not, I used to think this career would be easy! I don’t know where I got that delusion as my parents have always worked incredibly hard and been hands-on. In my first year at Shannon College of Hotel Management, our accommodation lecturer promised us, ‘This is not going to be glamorous.’ That has rang true whether I’ve been working in 5-star hotels in Switzerland or at the Kings Head. Sure, the career has its finer moments, wine tastings, meeting celebrities, having the craic with customers behind the bar while an amazing band plays in the background. A lot of time it doesn’t even feel like work. But for the most part, it’s hard graft, long hours on your feet, lots of cleaning, and dealing with unruly guests. It’s all part of the industry. I thought this would just be for a while when I started out, but the opposite is true, with managers and supervisors expected to lead by example.
J. What are your favourite non-food-related things to do in Galway right now?
Iseult: My favourite non-food or wine-related thing to do in Galway is working with Macnas. I’ve been part of the Macnas community for most of my life, and I currently work as both a stilt performer and a sommelier. It definitely keeps me on my toes—literally!
(Macnas is one of the best community organisations Galway has to offer. Get involved—it will change your perspective on things. Make friends, dance around – that’s what Galway is all about!)
Ruairí: Going out on a Galway Hooker boat around the bay, watching out for dolphins, is such a unique Galway experience. Pro tip: bring a bottle of Micil Poitín with you! As far as hobbies go, I’m a member of Galway Judo Club in the Claddagh. If I have visitors, I love to bring them to Inis Oírr—preferably flying over for the full experience.
Milo: Unfortunately, we are complete foodies through and through—we’re totally obsessed!
above: Ruairí
J. What advice—good or bad—has your parents passed on to you along the way?
Iseult: My mam, Aoife, (a pivotal part of Galway’s early food scene) has always told me not to sweat the small stuff. I lost my dad quite young, but our Galway food circle hasn’t been broken. I remember Junichi Yoshiyagawa (Kappa Ya) making me teddy bear sushi every day for school, and miso soup from Yoshimi Hayakawa (Wa Café) afterwards. Danny’s doughnuts were a daily treat. There are too many people to name them all… But above everyone else, my mam has always been there to make me feel empowered and focused, not to dwell on what’s not there, but to create something new.
Manus: My dad always says, ‘If you’re going to work, work with what you love.’
Milo: Anton always says, ‘Be consistent, and you’re only as good as your last sandwich.’
Ruairí: I could write a book on all the amazing advice my parents, Mary and Paul, have given me. One piece that stands out—and that I always focus on when it comes to the Kings Head—is: under-promise and over-deliver to the customer. If you manage your guests’ expectations and then exceed them, you’ll end up with a high level of guest satisfaction. Our menu is simple and uses plain English, but I like to think we surprise our guests with the quality of ingredients and a high-standard kitchen team. The same goes for front-of-house. We have a large capacity but have stuck to our guns, making cocktails fresh to order with homemade syrups. We’ve also kept our traditional barista machines at a time when many places are switching to machines.
So, what’s your advice for the young ones just starting out?
Iseult: Be yourself, work hard, and don’t panic if your personality is a little bit off the wall. Not everyone in a restaurant should be the same, dynamics build success. When you work in environments like this, you’re never alone. What I’ve experienced in my life has proved that food is family.
Manus: If you have an idea and you think it can work, you just have to go for it. People will laugh, and some will say it’s shite—but don’t take criticism from anyone you wouldn’t take advice from.
Ruairí: Get the basics down. Once you can use a coffee machine, it’s pretty much the same wherever you go—same with knife skills, wine service, and cocktail making. There are so many resources online these days, making it easy to get a head start. Seek out mentors. Look for people you admire in the industry and ask them how they got there. Learn a second—or a third—language. It’s an extremely enjoyable hobby that pays huge dividends in hospitality. It makes traveling and working abroad easier, and it helps you form an instant connection with guests who speak that language. I’ve worked through French and German myself. It’s also great to see the use of Irish being heavily promoted in hospitality here in Galway.
All photos by Ciarán MacChoncarraige.
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