From Fine Dining to Fire Dining: Blackthorn Sparks New Life into Galway’s Culinary Scene
Food & Drink//Review

From Fine Dining to Fire Dining: Blackthorn Sparks New Life into Galway’s Culinary Scene

Upstairs at The Twelve Hotel you’ll find a restaurant which might just be Galway’s best-kept secret …for now. So take our advice; beat the crowds and treat yourself to one of the best dining experiences in Ireland with a visit to Blackthorn Restaurant. We recently got the opportunity to check it out for ourselves, and let’s just say that it was an experience that we won’t be forgetting anytime soon.

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In what was formerly the fine dining West Restaurant, The Twelve team have completely transformed both space and menus, with stunning results. A soft naturally lit space, offering a mix of both small tables and communal long ones. Its menu has been designed with the same amount of care, bringing together the elements of land, fire, and sea in one incredible culinary harmony.


above: A refreshed new look for Blackthorn Restaurant 

Seated at one of their long tables, right in the heart of it all, we were in full awe of the refreshed space. There’s a quiet elegance to the room that is balanced beautifully with a sense of laid-back comfort. A simple yet thoughtful detail that really stood out was the menus. Printed on lavender seed paper, which were made by a local Connemara company. Not only do they look lovely but can be planted after use. It’s a small yet meaningful touch that perfectly reflects Blackthorn’s commitment to using 100% local, seasonal ingredients.

At the helm of our evening were Head Chef Nathan Hindmarsh, and sommelier Fergal Guiney who kindly guided us through the menu and recommended wine pairings for our dishes. At Blackthorn, it really is dining on another level, and that for us, meant that there was only one way we wanted to experience it–communal style. So, that’s exactly what we did.

First plate to arrive at the table, the Parker House bread and salted butter. If this opening bite was meant to hint at what lay ahead, then consider us warned, it was exceptional. Tearable, doughy, and perfectly light, each piece was a little slice of heaven.


above: Some of the most amazing bread we have ever tasted!

above: The oysters were incredible. The plating gorgeous and that gin was the perfect finish. 

After that unassuming yet life-changing plate, we moved onto starters. As the fried taleggio, oysters, beef tartare, and salad with crab, quail eggs and asparagus made their way to our table we could already tell that we were in for a treat. The fried taleggio was sensational. Topped with coppa and served on a bed of red pepper, it is the perfect starter. The beef tartare came with cheese and onion crisps which ended up being the unexpectedly perfect balance of texture and taste. The quail eggs were simple yet delightful, their light flavour enhanced by the more robust crab salad. And the oysters? Of course, these were a knockout. Delivered fresh that afternoon, they were served alongside a small bottle of An Dúlamán Irish maritime gin, which we poured into the shell and sipped straight after. (Fun fact: An Dúlamán Irish maritime gin is actually the very first gin to be distilled in Co. Donegal, a fact that has only gone to make us more impressed with the dish). Made with five varieties of locally harvested seaweeds, the gin added a briny, yet almost citrusy finish to the dish, and is now the only way we’d like to enjoy our oysters, thank you.


above: The Chateaubriand. Need we say more? Just look at it!

Moving onto the main event. Two dishes had caught our eye from the moment we read the menu: the Chateaubriand to share and the black sole on the bone. They were the highlight of the night. For our sides, we selected the potato terrine fries and fried onion bomb, and these proved to be absolutely the right call. The Chateaubriand was everything a great steak should be, cooked to medium rare, tender, and with hints of smokiness thanks to Head Chef Nathan’s perilla grill. The black sole was its own masterpiece, with the meat falling away from the bone in the most delicate, buttery way, each bite melting in the mouth.


above: We were completely blown away by the black sole. Served in brown butter, this dish was pure perfection. 

As we sat in silent awe of what we had just eaten, phones pinging with the jealous messages from family and friends reacting to our photos, the desserts arrived. One light, one rich, both equally divine! The basque cheesecake with blood orange and saffron was phenomenal, and the chocolate tart was a velvety, rich delight that brought our evening at Blackthorn to the perfect close.

If you want to experience a night like ours, don’t hesitate—book your table at Blackthorn Restaurant at www.blackthorngalway.com.

We’ll definitely be back.

Food photography by Ado Lyons.
Additional photography courtesy of Blackthorn Restaurant. 


above: Blackthorn Restaurant is undoubtedly one of Galway's best restaurant. Book your visit asap!

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